It took a while to complete. Starting a new job didn’t help. But the first section is now done!
I recently started a new job at Xilinx and got too busy to go flying or continue building (or post to this blog).
But I made good use of my last week of freedom to get a taildragger refresher at AeroDynamic Aviation (KRHV). We started with the good ol’ Citabrias.
The following weekend, I took my youngest for her first flight in a taildragger. She was looking at the stick, puzzled and asked: “Is this to move my seat?” 🙂 She got the real taste of it later in the flight.
Jason Beaver graciously paid me a visit to check on my early stage work. He pointed to the insufficient deburring of the CNC cut edges on the spar doubler. It’s thick and requires a bit more filing and sanding than I had invested. I thus re-ordered a few parts and re-did it. It feels so smooth now.
I was already getting tired of squeezing all those clecos. Thus I decided to invest in a Cleco Installation Tool found at Pan American Tools. They have two models. I picked this one. I love it!
I did my first dimples on the tail kit this morning. To help, I bought some aluminum stock at Home-Depot to fine-tune my microstop cage.
Usually one can just pop in a rivet into the practice hole to see if it’s of the right depth. However, countersunk holes need to be a little deeper when the piece attaches to a dimpled skin. I thus made myself a dimple template to verify the size of my holes as I go.
Going along, I was always confusing which direction to rotate the cage. I printed it on the cage itself.
Finally, the piece being countersunk needs room under it to allow for the pilot pin to go through. Thus, the piece of wood shown below.
The results were not bad at all…
After an overly long hiatus getting tools, caused by a shipping snafu, and some turmoil in my professional life, I’m back in the shop.
I finished match-drilling the skin for the tail (vertical stabilizer). It’s quite impressive to see it all clecoed together.
My wife was quite puzzled when she came back the next day and the tail had vanished. I was then deburring everything using an electric screwdriver and deburring bit. In some cases, I’ve had to rely on the time-tested manual tool too.
Finally everything is primed (I decided to only do the mating surfaces on the skin interior) and ready for dimpling/riveting. This self-etching primer, as I said in an earlier post, works very quickly. Just wipe the parts with their solved and shoot from the can. But it smells very, very strong. I do it in the morning when I can leave the garage door open for a few hours. Needless to say, I use a high quality respirator when applying this stuff. Note that Sharpie markings can still conveniently be seen through the primer. The holes that are circled are the ones to leave untouched at this stage. I’ll put tape back on them, just to be sure, before engaging in the dimpling routine.
I took the opportunity of a business trip to Spokane to play hooky and ‘spend’ a long eight-hour layover in Portland. Thirty minutes south, at the Aurora airport (KUAO), is Van’s Aircraft factory.